Kedarnath

The Journey That Humbled Me

TRAVEL

5/8/20244 min read

Kedarnath isn’t just a destination. It’s a journey that shakes you, stills you, and somehow heals you in the most unexpected ways. Not just because of the temple or altitude, but because every step toward it feels like a prayer—even when your legs are on fire and you’re questioning your life choices mid-trek.

Let me take you through how I made it from Delhi to Kedarnath, the slower, simpler way. No frills. Just faith.

🚉 Train to Haridwar: A Quiet Start

I, with my bestie, took a night train from Delhi to Haridwar—because honestly, the overnight train is the easiest way to get ahead without losing a day. I even managed to get a few hours of sleep (which later turned out to be gold).

By early morning, we were in Haridwar, where we grabbed a quick chai and boarded the GMVN bus to Sonprayag.

💡 Tip: You should pre-book the GMVN bus at the Haridwar bus stand. It’s no luxury ride—but it’s efficient, affordable, and gets you to Sonprayag before dark.

🚌 Haridwar to Sonprayag: The Long, Winding Ride

The drive from Haridwar to Sonprayag takes nearly 8–12 hours, depending on traffic and weather. The road twists through Rudraprayag, Guptkashi, and beautiful little hill hamlets. You see the Ganga become Mandakini. You feel the air change. You hear fewer horns, more birds. By the time we reached Sonprayag, the sky was turning pink. And the fatigue? It was real. But so was the excitement. So we boarded a bolero to Gaurikund immediately the same evening. We searched a hotel for us and called it a day early.

💡 Tip: Pack light snacks, water, and a scarf—it gets dusty. And yes, keep motion sickness tabs if you're prone to nausea on hilly roads.

🥾 Gaurikund to Kedarnath: The Trek Begins

Early morning the next day, we packed the essentials in one bag, kept the other in a local locker and stepped onto the track. From there, it’s just you and the trail to Kedarnath. And let me be honest—it’s not a casual hike. It’s steep. It’s relentless. But also, ridiculously beautiful. Mid-way we hired a porter to carry our lone bag, and we were carefree to enjoy the scenes!

You walk past waterfalls, pine forests, sudden fog, and fellow pilgrims chanting “Har Har Mahadev” like it’s keeping their feet moving. It was a beautiful 12-hours walk for us as we stopped frequently for pictures, water breaks, and talking to fellow travelers.

And somewhere along the way, you forget you’re tired. You just want to reach.

🙏 Reaching the Temple

When we finally reached the temple town, it was getting dark. The first view of Kedarnath Mandir, framed by snow-covered peaks and a sky full of stars, hit different. I didn’t speak for a while. Just stood there—cold, aching, moved.

The next morning, we lined up for darshan. There was wind, and a crowd, but also… silence inside. The kind you carry home with you.

🏨 Where We Stayed

We had pre-booked a GMVN tent near the temple. Basic, clean, and warm enough if you bring extra thermals. But we discovered it's 2 kilometers away from the temple and we wanted a closer stay. Honestly, how we found a stay and a companion is not less than an anecdote. It was a mad rush that day and all hotels were houseful. I was running in all possible directions for finding a two-bed with a roof when a girl runs towards me and asks if I would share room with her! And there we were after 2 hours of search.

However, you’ll find Tent stays, Budget dharamshalas, and government-run rest houses. They’re all functional, but don’t expect luxury. Expect simplicity. Which, honestly, suits the place.

🧄 Food & Chai

Let’s be real. Nothing tastes as good as hot Maggi and adrak wali chai after a full day’s trek. There are plenty of dhabas serving: dal, chawal, aloo gobhi, and everyone's favourite the aloo parathe. Eat light, hydrate, and avoid anything too spicy as altitude makes digestion tricky.

📅 Best Time & Essentials

  • Best time: May–June and Sept–Oct

  • Avoid monsoons (July–August): landslides + chaos

  • Essentials: Poncho, dry fruits, Diamox (if needed), power bank, and humility

💡 Book darshan slots and your Char Dham registration online via the UK Govt Portal. You’ll also need ePasses at Sonprayag and Gaurikund.

🧘‍♀️ What I Carried Back (Besides Backache)

Kedarnath isn’t a “weekend getaway.” It’s an experience.

You return with sore legs, yes. But also with: Stories, Calmness, Strangers turned into companions, and the strange satisfaction of having walked your way to something sacred.

✅ Quick Snapshot: Kedarnath Travel Summary

📍 Route Taken

  • Delhi → Haridwar (overnight train)

  • Haridwar → Sonprayag (GMVN bus)

  • Sonprayag → Gaurikund (local shared jeep)

  • Gaurikund → Kedarnath (16–18 km trek)

🗓 Best Time to Visit

  • May–June (spring/summer, snow-melting season)

  • September–October (post-monsoon, clearer skies)

  • Avoid July–August due to heavy rains & landslides

🛌 Stay Options

  • GMVN lodges

  • Budget dharamshalas

  • Tent accommodations (book in advance)

🥾 Trek Details

  • Distance: ~16–18 km (one way)

  • Trail: Steep incline, paved and well-marked

  • Duration: 6–10 hours depending on pace

📲 Essentials to Carry

  • Rain gear / poncho (if traveling during monsoons)

  • Warm layers / thermals

  • Trekking shoes

  • Water, dry fruits, glucose

  • Power bank, ID proof, basic medicines

🙏 Temple & Travel Passes

  • Register for Char Dham Yatra ePass

  • Carry digital or physical proof at Sonprayag & Gaurikund

  • Book darshan slot via UK Govt Portal

🚫 Things to Note

  • No vehicles allowed beyond Sonprayag

  • Mobile network may be patchy

  • Phones not allowed inside temple

  • Carry back your trash—no littering

💬 Thinking of Going?

If Kedarnath’s been on your mind, but you’re unsure where to start—drop me a message. I’d love to help you plan a route that feels realistic, soulful, and paced.

And if nothing else, just save this post.
For the day when your heart says, “Let’s go higher.”